With thinner halfe/twin ropes used onj a standard ATC guide, the rope can. The oval-ized anchor-hole allows for easy feeding and pulling of rope, and the devices guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an. There isn't much more to say except for the fact that the device works as advertised, with no obvious faults to speak of. Description If you are using <9mm half / twin ropes, this is the preffered device. But it is certainly nice to have should the need arise. In any case, the friction ridges still provide quite a bit of friction to the point that I prefer rappelling without using them in normal conditions. Whereas the ATC-XP has been said to have ~3 times the friction of the plain ATC, the ATC-Guide is said to have ~2 times the friction. Black Diamonds classic belay device updated for alpine climbing 6.9 - 9mm rope diameter optimized for 8.1 - 8.5mm Multiple friction modes designed for. Figure 8 - dont get this as a belay device. If you dont go multipitch climbing, its exactly as useful as the ATC-XP. ATC-Guide - Similar to the ATC-XP but it has an extra loop that becomes useful when multipitch climbing. Another biner was used to clip these backup knots. ATC-XP - If you put the brake side of the rope through the teeth, you get some extra friction. One strand ran through the device, and the other strand had alpine butterflies tied every 10 or so feet. For the heck of it, I tried using the ATC Guide today in autoblock mode as a solo TR device. It has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide. I have used a variety of devices and methods for solo toproping. The fact that you can rappel on two strands/bring up two followers was the biggest draw for me over the grigri. This is applicable mostly for canyoneering, where single-stranded rappels on wet and thin (9mm or less) rope necessitates that level of friction. I started on a normal atc, which i still love to use for many situations, but i picked up an alpine smart last spring to use in guide mode, and many times bringing up two followers. Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes. Note that all normal belay attention/precautions apply, but just that there is now a backup to normal belay.Ģ) The additional loops of aluminum functions as an effective heat sink, allowing this device to run cooler than comparable tube-style devices.ģ) The additional loop of aluminum is helpful for setting up a Z-rig rappel, which greatly increases friction.
What this addition achieves is threefold:ġ) For belaying a second, the ATC-Guide can now be set-up to brake automatically, much like the Petzl Reverso/Reversino. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges.
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